Although composting can begin any time of the year, fall is an excellent time to begin with all of the fallen leaves!  Getting started is fairly simple if you keep in mind the following…

Smaller particles break down faster.  Shredding garden wastes will help speed up the process.

Turning helps aerate the pile, shifting outer contents closer to the center where it can heat and decompose more effectively.

Materials that can be composted are sod, grass clippings, leaves, hay, straw, manure, chopped corncobs, corn stalks, sawdust, shredded newspaper, wood ashes, hedge clippings and many kinds of plant refuse from the garden.

Materials to avoid composting are weeds, grease, fat, meat scraps and bones, coal ashes, diseased plants, and charcoal.

Fertilizers can’t do the whole job of keeping your lawn healthy and beautiful because they can’t raise the pH of acidic soil. Poor lawns are often the result of acidic soil. Lime is an excellent way to correct low soil pH. Fall is the best time for liming your lawn because the soil expands and contracts as the temperature fluctuates during the winter months. This motion works the lime into the soil. Also, the increase of moisture during the fall and winter helps “percolate” the ground and coats the soil with lime particles.

Lime comes in three forms: pulverized, which is a fast-acting powder recommended for the garden; granular, which is sugar-textured and dust-free; and pelletized, which is fast-acting and dust free. Granular and pelletized forms can be applied to the lawn with a drop or rotary spreader. Application rates for the different types of soil are listed right on the back of the product bag. Generally, fifty pounds of lime per thousand square feet will raise the pH ½ of a point.

How do soils become acidic? Over the years, calcium and magnesium, the alkaline components in the soil, become replaced by hydrogen and are lost in drainage water. Also, while nitrogen is essential for good growth of grass, heavy applications make the soil more acidic. Not only does lime correct the acidity of the soul by reducing the toxic amounts of aluminum, manganese and iron, but it also supplies calcium and magnesium, which are essential for plant growth. Other benefits of applying lime include less leaching of potassium, making phosphorus more available and speeding the decomposition of organic matter in the soil for reuse by the plant.

How can you find out if your soil is too acidic? Bring in a soil sample, ½ cup taken from a depth of 6 inches, for a free pH test or, for a complete analysis of your soil, contact your county agent for a Soil Test Kit.

Simply put, a fertilizer has nutrients to help plants grow. Many years ago, farmers found that composted manure from their farm animals were beneficial for healthy plant growth. Today, most of us buy fertilizer in bags and bottles at our favorite garden center.

A trip to the store, however, can be a little confusing.  What do those three numbers displayed on the packaging mean?

Without getting too technical, the three numbers show the percentage of available nitrogen (N), phosphate (P) and potassium (K). By law, it always goes in that order. If you see a fertilizer with 20-5-10, it means the fertilizer contains 20% available nitrogen, 5% phosphate and 10% potassium. (Other nutrients and filler make up the difference.)

What does that mean to your plants?

• Nitrogen promotes chlorophyll, producing greener and more rapidly growing plants. If your plants aren’t as green as they should be, use a fertilizer with nitrogen. Most lawn fertilizers have relatively high nitrogen content and can increase the need to mow your lawn more frequently.
• Phosphate improves root growth, flowering ability and bloom size. Use a fertilizer with a larger “middle number” to encourage root growth during transplanting or to encourage blooms.
• Potassium enables the photosynthesis process and improves plant resistance to cold spells, drought, and insect attacks. Many people use a potassium fertilizer when the seasons change.

Read the label for specific instructions and uses. It may seem boring, but reading that label will prevent bad results. Overuse or misuse of fertilizer can kill your plants and that’s certainly not your intention. Read the label, follow the instructions and enjoy the results!

Summer can be the most stressful time of year for landscape plants with heat and drought being the main offenders.  When not receiving sufficient moisture, plants are much more susceptible to insect and disease damage. Trees are the most valuable landscape plants and therefore should be given priority during periods of drought.

Identify

Wilting and curling leaves will appear on drought stressed deciduous trees. Leaf edges will eventually turn brown and crispy and may drop prematurely.  Evergreen needles will begin to turn brown at the tips. As the drought continues the entire needle will turn brown.

Prioritize

Generally, the trees most at risk are those that are newly planted or transplanted. The root system of these plants is underdeveloped or has been damaged. Trees that are growing in a restricted area should also be of greater concern. This will include tree planted in containers, the grass strip between the street and sidewalk and trees grown adjacent to your house or driveway. Drought-sensitive plants like birches, beeches, dogwoods, Japanese maples and magnolias should also be given priority during drought conditions.

Water

It is best to begin good watering practices before the tree succumbs to drought stress. Trees need approximately one inch of water per week. If Mother Nature is not supplying it then you should.

It is best for the tree if the required water is applied all at one time to the soil, slowly and deeply. This can be accomplished by using irrigation bags on newly planted or small trees. Trees in a restricted area are best watered with a slow dripping hose placed at the base of the tree and moved frequently for even distribution. For larger trees, a soaker hose laid in a spiral pattern, radiating from the tree trunk out to the drip line, works well.

Tips

• Always water the soil and not the leaves or needles of the tree.
• 2 – 4 inches of mulch placed over the soil, under the tree, from the trunk to just beyond the drip line, will help to conserve soil moisture. Be certain not to mound mulch against the tree trunk.
• Water on overcast days, early in the morning or in the evening. Evaporation is slower during these times.
• Fertilizer can injure tree roots during times of limited soil moisture. Avoid using fertilizer during drought conditions

Merriam-Webster defines Ergonomics as: an applied science concerned with designing and arranging things people use so that the people and things interact most efficiently and safely. Experts in the field of Ergonomics strive to design and produce items that better match the capabilities, limitations and needs of the people who use them. The result is a safer product that causes less fatigue and stress on the body.

Before purchasing the tools required to perform your garden chores, it is best to choose those that fit the job and you. Repetitive gardening activities can put you at risk for Carpal tunnel syndrome and tendinitis. Listen to your body, if a movement hurts change what you are doing and the tools you are using.

Ergonomic garden tools will help you accomplish your garden tasks with greater efficiency and reduced effort, force, leaning or twisting.  With the correct tools you will be able to dig, trim and cut more, in less time, with less effort and more gardening enjoyment.

Because plants require moisture to grow and thrive, your garden will probably suffer during periods of low rainfall and intense heat.  Insufficient soil moisture will result in smaller flowers and fruit, stunted plant growth, decreased root development and increased plant disease and insect damage.  Fortunately, there are many things that you can do to minimize the impact of drought on your garden.

Soil

Soil is like a sponge that holds and releases all the ingredients that your plants need to survive.  Soils that drain quickly, sandy or rocky soil, will speed up and increase the effects of drought.  The best way to correct this problem is to amend your soil with organic matter.  Amending your soil adds to it’s moisture retaining ability, adds nutrients essential for plant health and increase soil aeration for ease of root growth.  Good choices include:

• compost
• composted manure
• composted leaf mold
• mushroom soil
• dried grass clippings
• earthworm castings

Drought Tolerant Plants

Drought tolerant plants are adapted to grow well in regions of low rainfall.  These plants require minimal water to survive.  When planting, try to group plants with the same water requirements together in an area best suited to their tolerance.  Plants best adapted to dry conditions include the following:

• native plants
• plants with deep taproots
• plants covered with hair
• tiny leaved plants
• succulents

 Watering Techniques

The best way to water a garden is by drip irrigation or a soaker hose. Soaker hoses allow deep watering without runoff.  Moisture goes directly into the soil where every precious drop can be absorbed by plant roots.  With conventional overhead watering methods, about 35% of the water used is wasted due to evaporation. Time saving tip: Install a timing device to automatically turn your irrigation system on and off as required.

Sprinklers should be used primarily for lawns. Newly seeded or sodded areas must be watered daily during the summer months until established, then frequently through the first growing season. Rain gauges are good for checking the amount of rainfall or for sprinkler placement. Lawn Tip: Do not cut lawns shorter than 3” in the summer.  This will shade the soil surface to allow the soil to remain cooler.  Also, use a mulching mower to return moist clippings to the soil.

Containers and hanging baskets should be checked for watering every day.  Watering wands are used for watering containers and hanging baskets; they give a gentle spray without splashing the soil. Container Tip: When planting your pots and hanging baskets, incorporate moisture retaining polymers into the soil.  When the soil starts to dry it will pull from this reserve.

Mulch

After watering, you will want to conserve as much soil moisture as possible.  Place at least two inches of mulch on the soil surface in the planting bed. Mulches help prevent soil moisture evaporation and reduce surface runoff.

• Spray Trees & Shrubs With An Anti-Transpirant

If pruning, only remove dead material from trees and shrubs, anything more will encourage new growth.  This takes energy that a drought stressed plant cannot afford.  Instead, spray leaves with an anti-transpirant or anti-dessicant to help leaves retain what moisture they have.

• Water Early

Morning temperatures are cooler and the sun is not as intense as later in the day so there is less moisture loss due to evaporation.

Also, water sitting on foliage will have a chance to dry during the day minimizing the chance of fungal infection, especially during humid weather.

• Water Slowly & Deeply

Watering slowly will allow the moisture to penetrate more deeply into the root zone rather than running off the soil surface.  Create depressions or water traps around larger plants to hold the water where you want it until it can saturate the soil.  Remember to water trees at the drip line, not at the trunk base, as this is where the roots are most active.  Drip irrigation bags are excellent for watering newly planted trees.

• Water the Soil, Not the Leaves

Plants take up water through their roots. Water landing on the foliage will be lost due to evaporation.  The more water you direct to the soil, the less you will waste. The key is infrequent, but heavy watering rather than light, frequent waterings.  This encourages deep root growth, which increases drought tolerance.

• Conserve Precious Water

Place a rain barrel under downspouts to collect rainwater.  Wash the car on the lawn rather than on the driveway.  Reuse  ‘gray water’, such as bathtub or dishwater and rinse cycle water from your laundry, to water your garden. Replace leaky hoses and sprinklers and use washers to correct leaks at fittings.

* Water slowly and thoroughly.
* Recycle water:

• Final rinse water (except loads with bleach)
• Drip from air conditioners (produces 5 gallons in a 24 hour period)
• Dehumidifiers
• Divert water from downspouts toward dry areas
• Used water from the kitchen (cooking, leftover drinking, etc.)

* Use Gator Bags (plastic bags that slowly release water) for large trees.
* Use rain barrels to collect rainwater.
* Use a 5 gallon bucket with a few holes in the bottom to water large trees and a 2 liter bottle with the same to water smaller plants. This allows for a slow soaking – rather than runoff.
* Water early in the morning to cut down on evaporation.
* Cut one minute off your shower and turn off the water while brushing your teeth.

By gardening with your children or grandchildren, you can help give them an awareness and appreciation of nature and the world around them that will stay with them for the rest of their lives. Even very young children enjoy helping with simple garden chores such as weeding, spreading mulch and harvesting. Older children love to have their own special garden to look after. This could be as small as several containers on the deck or as big as your whole yard, depending on their (and your) time, willingness and patience. To start out, you might give them a section of your garden to plant and look after.

First, be sure to teach your budding gardener the value of improving the soil with organic material before they begin planting. Explain how organic material improves the texture of the soil and adds some food for the plants as well.

Since improving the soil will make them more successful, they’ll be willing to garden again next spring. There are special kid’s tools available, just right for small hands to manipulate and since children love getting dirty, you’ll not be short of volunteers when the digging begins!

Next, help your child select a combination of plants that will make their garden interesting and exciting throughout the year. You can do this by considering all five senses:

Sight

Many colorful blooming   plants, as well as plants with unusual flowers or seeds will appeal to a child’s imagination. Consider smiling pansy faces and nodding  columbines in the spring; snapdragons to snap and silver coins from the money plant (Lunaria biennis) in summer; and in the fall, blue balloon flowers (Platycodon grandiflora) and the bright orange seed cases of Chinese lantern (Physalis franchettii).

Touch

Stroke the silky-soft, silver leaves of lamb’s ears (Stachys byzantina) – now you’ll know how it got its name. Or, feel the papery flowers of thrift (Armeria maritima) or strawflowers, the ferny foliage of yarrow or the succulent foliage of sedum.

Taste

Growing vegetables is always fun and rewarding for children. If you have the space, it’s always exciting to grow pumpkins for Halloween or weird and wonderful gourds. Other easy to grow vegetables include radishes, lettuce, and cherry tomatoes. At harvest time let your child host a ‘salad party’ to share their bounty with family and friends.

Smell

There are many scented flowers to choose from, including perennial peonies and lilies, as well as annual sweet alyssum and heliotrope. Let them select herbs with fragrant foliage too. Mint is always popular but be sure to allow room for it to spread. Choose varieties with interesting names like chocolate, apple or grapefruit. Use the pineapple flavored leaves of pineapple sage in iced tea and watch the hummingbirds gather around this herb’s bright red flowers!

Sound

The whirring of hummingbird wings, the song of a bird, the rustling of foliage or flowers in a breeze; these are all sounds that you and your child can share in a garden. Take time out from your gardening chores every now and then to listen.

So, bring in your child and let us help you get started on that most special garden of all, a child’s garden.

Yellow means caution, even in the garden. While leaf yellowing, chlorosis may be a signal that there is a problem that requires attention, it may also be normal.  Chlorosis is the scientific word used to indicate the full or partial yellowing of plant leaves or stems and simply means that chlorophyll is breaking down.

Normal Chlorosis – Yellowing leaves at the base of an otherwise healthy plant is normal; the plant is simply utilizing the nitrogen and magnesium for exposed leaves near its top rather than older, lower leaves.

Chlorotic Response to Light – Moving a plant from full sun to shade, or visa-versa, can cause yellowing leaves.  Make sure that you grow and maintain your plant in the proper light.

Chlorotic Response to Moisture – Sudden changes in soil moisture may damage or kill plant roots. Most otherwise healthy plants, however, are able to grow new roots as they readjust.  Maintain correct soil moisture or move the plants to a more favorable environment.

Mineral Deficiency – A shortage of some key mineral nutrients will cause chlorosis in plants. Often, a yellow leaf indicates a lack of nitrogen, however, magnesium, iron, sulfur or manganese deficiencies are indicated by yellowing leaves with prominent green leaf veination. A magnesium deficiency will manifest itself in the yellowing of older leaves. On the other hand, an iron deficiency presents itself in the yellowing of new or young leaves. A simple soil analysis will let you know what minerals or trace elements your soil is deficient in.

Soil Factors – Although the essential and trace elements may be present in the soil, many other factors affect how the plant uses and absorbs them.  If the soil pH is too high/low or there is too much salt in the soil, the plant will not be able to utilize the available nutrients. Test your soil pH and adjust as necessary.

Toxins – Although this doesn’t happen frequently, pollutants like paint, oil, chemical solvents, airborne herbicides or pesticides or other pollutants may cause leaves to turn yellow and dark brown before dying.  In this case, remove and dispose of the plant and its surrounding soil.