Author Archives: GCSDev

Raised Bed Tomato Gardens

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There’s nothing quite like a homegrown tomato! Store bought simply can’t compare to the exceptional freshness, quality, variety, and, most importantly, taste of a tomato that you grow yourself. Raised bed tomato growing makes the whole process, from soil to table, convenient and easy for the home gardener.

Why Raised Beds

Raised bed gardening offers a number of advantages over growing in the ground, these include:

Improved soil conditions
Earlier planting
Easier maintenance
Decreased garden pests
Higher crop yield

Preparing Raised Beds

Growing vegetables in a raised bed is essentially the same as growing vegetables in any container, and did you know that a high-quality soil builder that is packed with compost and is nutrient rich, is your best choice for a raised bed garden?

We recommend filling your raised bed with Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Builder, which is specifically designed for the Eastern and Midwestern Regions. This product contains natural, power-packed, soil components that feed the soil that feeds your tomatoes!

Don’t forget the fertilizer! In addition to using Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Builder, we suggest adding Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Tomato and Vegetable Food at planting time, and on a regular basis, to ensure that your tomatoes are getting everything they need to grow and fruit to their full potential.

You can grow the best vegetables ever this year! With Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® products, you are guaranteed the best soils and plant foods available anywhere, making it possible for even the newest gardener to obtain outstanding results.

Tomatoes for Raised Beds

When selecting tomatoes for a raised bed garden, we recommend looking for bush and tumbling varieties. These designations should be listed on your plant tags at your Master Nursery® Garden Center; the staff will be happy to help you in your tomato selection beyond the list provided in this article.

Bush tomatoes are compact growing, non-vining tomatoes that economize on the limited space that a raised bed garden offers. Bush tomatoes also require less care than their tall vining partners as there is no need to prune them, and they are easily supported with a standard tomato cage. Bush style tomatoes are perfect for slicing to use on sandwiches.

Better Bush
A medium sized tomato with a great flavor, borne on a strong, bushy plant.
Celebrity
A flavorful, medium to large sized fruit, perfect for slicing, on a 3 – 4 feet high plant.
Patio
A small but very productive, compact plant, about 2 feet high, with smaller yet tasty fruit to match.
Roma
A well know and highly prized sauce tomato, Roma, a pear-shaped Italian style is less juicy than other tomatoes making it perfect for freezing too.
Rutgers
A very productive heirloom tomato, Rutgers is known for its large, red, super-tasty fruit.

Tumbling tomatoes, also referred to as cascading tomatoes, are vining tomatoes, usually cherry or grape style, and make the perfect addition to a raised bed tomato garden. Plant this type of tomato along the edge of the raised bed allowing it to tumble or cascade over the side for easy access to the fruit. No need to stake!

Juliet Roma Grape
A very sweet, grape shaped variety, great for summer kabobs.
Black Cherry
Round, dark, and flavorful, perfect for snacking right off the vine.
Sun Sugar Yellow
Super sweet, orange colored tomato on a heavily producing plant, Sun Sugar Yellow tomatoes will sweeten your summer salads.
Super Sweet 100
This tomato’s claim to fame is its high sugar content that creates its unsurpassable sweetness.
Tumbling Tom Yellow
Perfect for containers and hanging baskets, as well as raised bed gardens, small, yellow, delicious fruits are borne in abundance on this tiny tumbler.

Planting in Raised Beds

Tomatoes, even bush type, should be planted deep by burying about two thirds of the plant’s stem with the first leaves just above ground level, this means that all leaves below the soil level should be removed at planting time. If tomato plants become leggy before being set in the ground, they may be planted horizontally as roots will continue to develop on the planted stem.

Ongoing Care in Raised Beds

Water and fertilize at planting time and adhere to a regular schedule for both. A well adhered to watering schedule or routine will ensure a good fruit set, a high yield, and avoid blossom end rot disease.

In addition to fertilizing at planting time, established tomato plants should be fed every 4-6 weeks through the growing season with Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Tomato and Vegetable Food. Nutrients can be leached from the soil due to excessive rainfall and regular watering. Fertilizing with this exceptional product will feed your plants with all the macro & micro-nutrients that they need, including calcium for preventing a common tomato problem called blossom end rot.

Growing in a raised bed makes getting quality tomatoes to your table a whole lot easier, giving you more time in the summer to enjoy a good tomato sandwich!

Container Herbs (outdoor)

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The Container Herb Garden

There are many reasons to grow fresh herbs. Herbs enhance the flavor of your favorite dishes, their visual appeal renders them the perfect garnish, and they are high in nutritional value. There are just as many reasons to grow herbs in containers! Containers make herbs easily accessible to the kitchen and grill, they allow you to plant herbs with similar cultural requirements together, and herbs are ornamental, adding edible beauty to a porch, patio, deck, or even a fire escape.

Selecting Herbs

Selecting herbs to grow in containers should not be difficult. Remember, if it can be grown in the ground, it can be grown in a container.

We recommend choosing which herbs you are most likely to use in the dishes that you create. The top ten most popular herbs are:

Basil
Used in Italian and Asian cuisine, fresh basil is loaded with antioxidants, vitamins K, A, and minerals. Grow basil in full sun in moist, well-drained soil.
Bay Leaf
Most often used in soups and stews, bay leaf is a great source of vitamin A, B6, and C. Grow bay leaf in full to part sun in well-drained soil.
Cilantro
Frequently used in Caribbean, Asian, and Mexican dishes, cilantro is rich in vitamin A, C, & K, as well as being antioxidant rich. Grow cilantro in full sun to part shade in moist, well-drained soil.
Dill
Used in dips, soups, salads, and fish, dill is loaded with flavonoids that are known to reduce the risk of heart disease and stroke. Grow dill in full sun to part sun in moist, well-drained soil.
Mint
Used in salads, sauces, teas, cocktails, desserts, and more, mint is rich in C, D, E, & A vitamins, boosting the body’s immune system, protecting cells, and soothing stomach upsets. Mint is grown in full sun to part shade in moist, well-drained soil. All mints are aggressive growers and should only be grown in containers to control their spread.
Oregano
Used in Greek, Italian, and Spanish cuisine, oregano is full of antioxidants, vitamin K, E, & iron and possesses excellent infection fighting properties. Oregano should be grown in a full sun location in well-drained soil.
Parsley
Parsley is used as a palate cleanser, garnish, and seasoning in sauces and salads. Both flat leaf and curly parsley are rich in vitamins A, C, K, and antioxidants. Parsley is best grown in a full sun to part shade location in nutritious, moist, well-drained soil.
Rosemary
Used primarily in Mediterranean and Italian dishes, studies conclude that rosemary has strong antifungal, antiviral, and antibacterial properties. Rosemary prefers growing in full sun and in loamy, well-drained soil. Allow soil to dry slightly between watering.
Sage
Perfect used in poultry, pork and sausage dishes and frequently used in stuffing, and sauces, sage, high in vitamin K and important minerals, is known to support brain function and lower bad cholesterol. Grow sage in well-drained, loamy soil. Allow soil to dry slightly between watering.
Thyme
Frequently used in sauces, soups, and meat dishes, thyme brings helpful nutrients to the table like vitamin A, C, copper, iron, and manganese. Thyme essential oil is used as a mood booster and to reduce blood pressure. Thyme loves the heat. Give it full sun and very well-drained soil. Thyme can take dry conditions.

Selecting Containers

As long as the container is well-draining, just about any container may be used for growing herbs. Lower growing herbs, like cilantro, oregano, parsley, sage, and thyme, work well in a hanging basket, planted in a strawberry jar, or set toward the front of a window box. Taller growing herbs, like basil, bay leaf, dill, and upright varieties of rosemary, may be planted in their own containers, grouped in a whiskey barrel, or placed toward the back of the window box. Terracotta pots and coco-lined containers are the perfect choice for herbs that require excellent drainage and dryer conditions like rosemary, sage, oregano, and thyme.

Selecting Soil and Fertilizer

Never use garden soil to fill your herb containers. Garden soil is heavy and does not drain well. Instead, use our Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Potting Soil [Eastern & Midwestern Regions | Western Region]. This potting soil is a premium blend of organic ingredients that are perfectly balanced for both water-holding capabilities and drainage and offers a lightweight alternative to other planting soils. In addition, it boasts high-quality, organic ingredients to help your herbs to flourish.

Keep in mind that herbs are not heavy feeders. Add Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® All Purpose Food at planting time and then again every 6 weeks during the growing season. This exceptional blend of natural ingredients is perfectly formulated for the organic growing of herbs as well as all other container plants and gardens.

Trying to find our Bumper Crop® products? Use our handy store locator: https://www.bumpercrop.com/store-locator/

Selecting a Location

Place your herb containers where they are easily accessible to both the kitchen and grill, the spaces where you will use them most often. Make sure that you select a sunny location for vigorous, strong, and healthy plant growth, and clip your herbs frequently to keep them producing and looking their best.

Growing in containers is a simple and convenient alternative to traditional herb gardening, ensuing that fresh herbs are close by whenever you decide to whip up a delicious dish.

In-Ground Flower Gardens

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DESIGNING THE FLOWER GARDEN

Spring is here, and gardening is on our minds. Flower gardens are an exhilarating sight, bringing color, scent, and nature back into our lives after a lengthy and dreary winter. A well-planned flower garden can provide us with color and joy from early spring straight through to late fall.

SELECT A SITE

As you dream and scheme your new flower garden, there are several important factors that you will certainly want to take under consideration.

View. Where will the garden be most viewed from? Will it be from a window, a porch or deck, front, back, or side yard, or somewhere else? Determining your view will help decide where to place plants, so that the primary view is not blocked.
Observing how much light your selected site receives will help you determine whether you will incorporate sun or shade loving plants.
Is the site particularly moist or dry? Being aware of this will also aid in selecting flowers that will do well in either of these situations.
Dig in and have a look at your soil. Sandy soil has difficulty holding on to water and nutrients. Clay soil holds too much water and provides reduced air space for healthy root development. Loam soil is preferred by most plants. To amend your soil to achieve a better quality required by most plants, turn a generous amount of Master Nursery® Bumper Crop®Soil Builder [Eastern & Midwestern Regions | Western Region] into your native soil. Not only will this exceptional natural and organic modifier increase the nutritional content of your soil, but it will also increase drainage and the soil’s water holding capacity. In addition, it is a delight to plant into! Adding Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Rose and Flower Food to your flower bed at planting time, and then again monthly throughout the growing season, will ensure happy, healthy, strong plants with lots of blooms!
Familiarity with your USDA Hardiness Zone will allow you to select plants that are known to not only survive but thrive in your area of the country.

SINGLE OUT A STYLE

After taking site selection into consideration, the next step is to decide which type of garden style you would like to replicate, and there are many to choose from, such as…

annual, perennial, or bulb gardens
mixed beds and borders
cutting garden
rock garden
woodland or wildflower
formal or informal
native garden
sun or shade
tropical style

and the list goes on and on.

Singling out a garden style, before choosing your plants, will help to narrow the selection down and ensure that the design is cohesive.

LAY OUT YOUR LOOK

Once the garden site and style have been identified, it is time to lay out the garden. It is a good idea to do this on paper first, before investing time, energy, and money into the final project. The garden shape will be determined by the selected style. The size will be determined by how much time and energy is available to invest each week in garden maintenance.

Once the perimeter of the garden is decided upon and drawn, fill the interior in with a proposed plant plan.

Consider Diversification. Annual flowering plants last just one season. Annuals, planted after the last frost in the spring, will continue to bloom until hit with the first frost in the fall. Annuals must be replaced each year but are inexpensive and can provide the opportunity to change the look of your flower garden each year. Perennials will return year after year, often spreading or reseeding, making them very useful in the garden. Perennials, however, can be costly and have a limited bloom time with most blooming for just a couple of weeks during the growing season. It’s a good idea to select perennials with attractive foliage so that they will still look good in the garden when not in bloom. Hardy bulbs are another great addition, with most returning year after year but, as with perennials, they possess a limited bloom time. A well-planned garden, delivering a long bloom time, will include a mix of annuals, perennials, and bulbs.
Consider Plant Color. Add bubbles or circles to your paper plan to represent the flower color that you would like to use in that particular area. Colored pencils are helpful in this step. Make sure that the selected colors look good next to each other. Silver leafed plants make a great transition between colors that do not look particularly well up against one another.
Consider Drama. Large sweeping drifts of color add awe and drama to the flower garden while simplifying the design process by using lots of flowers but less variety. Drifts are best planted with an odd number of plants to prevent the garden from becoming symmetrical.
Consider Repetition. Repeating plants and color throughout the garden give it a soothing and consistent appearance.
Consider Plant Size. For beds and borders that are predominantly viewed from the front, tall flowers will be selected for the back of the garden with medium height in the middle, and short plants toward the front of the bed. For an island bed that is viewed from all sides, tall plants will be placed in the center of the bed surrounded with medium height plants and low ones around the perimeter. Be certain to leave enough room for each plant to grow to its full potential.

SPRING SUPERSTARS

Annuals

These spring blooming annuals will provide exceptional early season color in the flower garden and may be planted while there is still a chill in the air.

Bachelor Button
Calendula
Icelandic Poppy
Sweet Pea
Larkspur

Perennials

Perennial plants will bring the earliest color to the spring garden while also providing unique blooms.

Baptisia
Bleeding Heart
Columbine
Hellebore
Peony

Bulbs

Favorite bulbs for the spring garden should be planted the previous fall season.

Blue Bells
Daffodil
Fritillaria
Hyacinth
Tulip

Sometimes planning a flower bed for long term beauty and enjoyment can feel overwhelming. There’s no reason to worry! Your local Master Nursery® Garden Center is available to assist with knowledgeable staff, an astonishing selection of flowering plants, and, of course, Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® soils and fertilizers.

In-Ground Vegetable Gardens

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5 EASY STEPS TO CREATING AN IN-GROUND VEGETABLE GARDEN

Growing your own vegetables is not only an enjoyable pastime but also contributes to a healthy lifestyle, offering fresh air, sunshine, exercise, and nourishing food to eat.

If you are new to vegetable gardening, here are our 5 steps to get you started.

Step One

Select a site for your garden. This area should be located in full sun, should be relatively flat, well-draining, and convenient to a water source.

Step Two

Determine what size your garden will be. This will depend on how many people are eating from your plot and how much available time you have to care for your garden. If this is your first veggie garden, it is best to start small so that you are not overwhelmed. You can always increase the size next year.

Step Three

Prepare the bed. Strip off the sod and heavily amend the soil with Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Builder [Eastern & Midwestern Regions | Western Region]. This will guarantee that your veggies get off to the best start possible. The soil builder may be either tilled or turned into the soil. Sprinkle Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Tomato and Vegetable Food into the amended soil and rake it in. Level the soil and you are ready for planting.

Step Four

Select the vegetables that you would like to grow, and grow what you like to eat. It is, however, a good idea to keep it simple in the beginning. Here are some easy spring crops that can be direct seeded right into the garden after the last frost. Always read your seed packet, as it will provide you with the particulars of each vegetable that you grow.

Beets
Carrots
Lettuce
Peas
Radishes
Scallions
Spinach

As the soil and air temperatures rise, these cool season crops will peter out. At that time, you may remove them, add an inch or two of Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Builder [Eastern & Midwestern Regions | Western Region] and fertilize again with Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Tomato and Vegetable Food before planting your warm season veggies.

Beans
Cucumbers
Peppers
Squash
Tomatoes
Zucchini

Beans, cucumbers, squash, and zucchini may all be direct seeded into the garden. Tomatoes and peppers, on the other hand, should be planted in the garden as young plants.

All veggie plants, seeds, supports, soil amenders, fertilizer, and tools may be found at your helpful and well stocked Master Nursery® Garden Center.

Step Four

Be certain to familiarize yourself with the plants that you are growing. Some are vining plants that may do best when trellised, like peas and beans. Others, like tomatoes and peppers, require support with either a cage or stakes and twine. Some plants, like zucchini and squash, are best planted into a slight mound of soil and left on their own to sprawl. Plants like beets, carrots, lettuce, radishes, scallions, and spinach require no support at all.

Step Five

Nurture your veggie plants to fruition. Ensure that they receive adequate water. Fertilize monthly during the growing season. Add a layer of mulch to keep soil moist and keep weeds at bay. Check plants frequently for insect and disease damage, and consult your Master Nursery® Garden Center if you detect a problem. The staff will gladly assist you with a solution. Harvest your vegetables when ripe and, most importantly, enjoy!

Ideas for Creating Winter Interest in the Garden

Most gardeners think of it as a time of rest, but winter is the perfect time to plan next year’s winter wonderland. Take a look around you. Walk your neighborhood or a nearby arboretum. What colors, shapes, textures, and shadows do you find appealing? Consider replicating them in your yard to enjoy for many winters to come.

Winter Beauty in Your Landscape

Winter is a time of special beauty and interest. Berries sparkle on shrubs under a layer of frost and ice, while other shrubs have shades of bronze leaves that cling and rattle in winter breezes. The leafless branches of larger trees cast dramatic shadows across the freshly fallen snow. Bark hidden by the leaves of summer stands out gorgeously in the winter. Barks of silvery gray, white, green, yellow, purple or red hues add a burst of color when the landscape is covered in white. Even barks that are deeply fissured, sleek as satin, peeling in thin layers or curiously pocked by a pitted surface give interest to a wonderful winter landscape. Dried grasses stand out in stark contrast against the backdrop of dark evergreens, shaking snow off their delicate heads. There is even the surprising red, orange, and yellow ribbon-like blooms of witch-hazel, which flower in mid-winter, or the delicate lavenders and blues of tiny species of crocuses poking their heads out from under the snow. Pansies are also a great addition for late-season winter color in your flowerbeds. Everywhere you look, there can be beauty in the winter landscape.

Top Plants for Winter Interest

Many different plants offer interesting features that reach their full potential in the winter landscape. Outstanding selections include…

Paperbark Maple (Acer griseum)
Threadleaf Japanese Maple (Acer palmatum dissectum)
Red Chokeberry (Aronia arbutifolia)
Shagbark Hickory (Carya ovata)
Blue Atlas Cedar (Cedrus atlantica ‘Glauca’)
Harry Lauder’s Walking Stick (Corylus avellana ‘Contorta’)
Winter Daphne (Daphne odora)
Common Snow Drops (Galanthus nivalis)
Wintergreen (Gaultheria procumbens)
Christmas Rose (Helleborus niger)
Chinese witch-hazel (Hamamelis mollis)
Winterberry Holly (Ilex verticillata) Need female and male plant for berries
Christmas fern (Polystichum acrostichoides)
Common Camellia (Camellia japonica)
Heathers/Heaths

Be sure to keep a list of what plants interest you as you observe the winter landscape around you. If you can’t identify them, take a picture and head to your local Master Nursery Garden Center for identification. While you are there, be sure to pick up Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Builder [Eastern & Midwestern Regions | Western Region] This exceptional, nutrient-rich soil amender consists of high-quality, organic ingredients. It is the perfect soil enhancer to use next spring when putting all of your new plants in the ground that are destined to create a remarkable winter wonderland to be enjoyed for many years to come.

Pet Friendly Houseplants

Houseplants and pets make a house a home; however, some popular houseplants can be harmful to our precious pets. Fortunately, there are plenty of beautiful, pet-friendly houseplants that can create the ambiance you crave and are safe for your furry friends.

Favorite Pet-Friendly Houseplants

There are a variety of plants, ranging from easy-care for beginners to the more challenging for experienced growers, that are pet-safe, excellent choices, suitable for homes with both dogs and cats include…

Spider Plant– A great plant for beginners because of its forgiving nature, the spider plant may have either striped or plain foliage that cascades in elegant curves. This easy-care plant looks best when hung or may be perched on a pedestal for a similar effect.
Ponytail Palm– While this palm-like plant is actually part of the agave family, it is an excellent air purifier and its long, slender foliage adds welcome variety to a houseplant grouping. This plant prefers full sun and can grow up to four feet tall indoors.
African Violet– A classic blooming houseplant with rich purple, pink, magenta, white, and bicolor flowers and broad, velvety leaves, the African violet is a pet-friendly favorite. These colorful plants are compact, making them great for smaller spaces in the urban jungle.
Boston Fern– The delicate, feathery foliage of the Boston fern prefers filtered light and a higher humidity environment, making it great in bathrooms. Hang the plant to show off its foliage or perch it on top of a bookshelf or pedestal instead.
Wheat Grass– Also called cat grass or pet grass, is a lawn-like houseplant that is fun for pets to nibble. While wheat grass is relatively easy to grow, it does require regular “mowing” with appropriate shears to stay full and lush.
Cast Iron Plant– This extremely hardy plant is great for beginners and tolerates all types of neglect, including low light, low humidity, and irregular watering. This makes it a wonderful houseplant for the new plant parent or anyone who may find it difficult to offer scheduled care.
Polka Dot Plant– The colorful splashes of pink or white on this plant’s foliage make it a bright addition to any houseplant collection, and it can be a pet-friendly alternative to the highly toxic poinsettia during the holidays. Bright, indirect light is best to help this plant keep its fun coloration.
Bromeliad– These bold plants have colorful blooms and dramatic foliage, making them favorite statement pieces in the home or office. Bright light will help bring out their color, and humidity should be kept between 40 to 60%.
Prayer Plant– The colorful, striped foliage of the prayer plant, plus its unique habit of “folding” its foliage at night, make it a houseplant favorite. Bright, indirect light and high humidity will help keep this plant healthy and lush.
Peperomia– There are more than 1000 varieties of peperomia, not all are readily available, but all are easy-care and pet-safe plants. Small in stature, they are an excellent choice for placing on a nightstand, shelf, or desk. Peperomia prefer a medium to low light location out of direct sunlight. Allow the potting soil to become dry between waterings.

Protecting Your Houseplants from Pets

It’s important to remember that even if a houseplant is considered pet-friendly, pets that nibble on the foliage may have some digestive trouble, particularly if they were to eat a large quantity of the plant. Furthermore, pets can stress plants by tipping pots, laying on the plant, digging in the dirt, or otherwise disturbing the plant. For the safest relationship between your houseplants and your pets, you can take several steps to help them get along.

Position houseplants out of reach of pets, or in a room where pets are not permitted to enter.
Train pets to leave houseplants alone and reinforce that training whenever necessary.
Use heavier clay, concrete, or ceramic pots that pets will be unable to easily tip.
Use stones as a top dressing so pets are unable to dig in the plant’s soil.
Spray the pot or foliage with bitter apple or other safe pet repellant sprays if needed.

To keep all of your precious houseplants healthy and looking their best, be sure to pot-them-up using Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Potting Soil. Choose the product for your region:

EASTERN & MIDWESTERN REGIONS: Bumper Crop® Gardener’s Gold Organic Potting Soil is good for all outdoor and indoor container plants! It is a blend of sphagnum peat moss, composted hen manure, shellfish, perlite, and very old dark bark. It is also pH adjusted with lime, as needed. This product is perfectly suited for houseplants and all general garden planting. Gardener’s Gold Organic Potting Soil is a rich, earthy blend made with natural and organic ingredients with a special water-saving formula.

WESTERN REGION: Bumper Crop Natural & Organic Potting Soil is a premium blend of natural and organic ingredients that are perfectly balanced for both water-holding capabilities and drainage. It is an excellent potting soil for both indoor and outdoor use in all container types and sizes. This special natural and organic potting soil offers a blend of high-quality ingredients including earthworm castings, bat guano, and kelp.

When repotting your houseplants, it’s a great idea to add a little Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® All Purpose Food to your potting soil. This organic, all-purpose plant food is non-burning and will give your houseplant transplants a healthy start in their new dwelling.

Houseplants can be just as much a part of your family as any four-legged, furry family members, and by choosing pet-friendly houseplants, your pets can get along with your urban jungle just fine.

Early Spring Blooming Perennials

During a long and dreary winter, it seems next to impossible that your cherished flowerbeds will ever burst into life again. Early spring perennials, however, are precious proof that winter is on its way out; some can even bloom in bright, cheerful colors right through lingering snow. Yet, we frequently forget early spring perennials as we are often overcome with the bold, familiar bulb displays of tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, and more. This is unfortunate, because many of these perennials have a subtle charm that complement bulbs and shrubs, which bloom in early spring, and they add even more variety, texture, and color to your landscape.

Perennials for Early Spring Blooms

When choosing the best plants to create a stunning early spring display, the USDA Hardiness Zone and the amount of sun or shade the location receives are both critical factors for the plants’ success. However, another, often overlooked, crucial element for plant success is the plants’ soil requirements. Let’s break this down.

For a full to part sun location, opt for…

Columbine (Aquilegia spp.) Zones: 3 – 9 Soil: Rich, moist yet well-drained
Sea Thrift (Armeria maritima) Zones: 4 – 8 Soil: Lean, sandy
Yellow Alyssum (Aurinia saxatilis) Zones: 4 – 7 Soil: Sandy well-drained, average fertility
Leopard’s Bane (Doronicum orientale) Zones: 4 – 8 Soil: Consistently moist but not soggy, humus rich
Mountain Pinks (Phlox subulate) Zones: 5 – 9 Soil: Rich, evenly moist but well-drained
Pigsqueak (Bergenia cordifolia) Zones: 3 – 8 Soil: Rich, moist yet well-drained
Rockcress (Aubrieta spp.) Zones: 5 – 7 Soil: Sandy, rocky
Candytuft (Iberis sempervirens) Zones: 3 – 8 Soil: Lean, well-drained, gravelly
Wall Cress (Arabis caucasica) Zones: 4 – 7 Soil: Lean, sandy, or gritty
Primrose (Primula spp.) Zones: 2 – 8 Soil: Slightly acidic, rich, moist yet well-drained

For a part to full shade location…

Pasqueflower (Pulsatilla vulgaris) Zones: 4 – 8 Soil: Well-drained, sandy
Corydalis (Corydalis spp.) Zones: 5 – 7 Soil: Rich, moist yet well-drained
Bleeding Heart (Dicentra spectabilis) Zones: 2 – 9 Soil: Rich, moist yet well-drained
Siberian Bugloss (Brunnera macrophylla) Zones: 3 – 8 Soil: Rich, moist yet well-drained
Virginia Bluebells (Mertensia virginica) Zones: 3 – 8 Soil: Sandy, evenly moist
Lungwort (Pulmonaria spp.) Zones: 3 – 8 Soil: Rich, well-drained
Forget-Me-Not (Myosotis) Zones: 5 – 9 Soil: Rich, moist, well-drained
Woodland Phlox (Phlox divaricata) Zones: 3 – 8 Soil: Rich, moist yet well-drained
Creeping Phlox (Phlox stolonifera) Zones: 5 – 9 Soil: Rich, moist yet well-drained
Hellebores (Helleborus spp.) Zones: 3 – 9 Soil: Rich, moist yet well-drained, will tolerate dry soil once established

Planting Early Spring Blooming Perennials

When you choose which early spring bloomers to add to your landscape, consider the plants’ overall mature size, soil requirements and both watering and fertilizing needs to be sure they can reach their full potential. If you choose to plant them in fall, take extra care to protect tender roots and give them time to thoroughly establish themselves before the first hard freeze.

Planting Tips

When fall planting your early spring blooming perennials, or when planting them at any other time of the year, it is wise to use Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Builder [Eastern & Midwestern Regions | Western Region]. This exceptional addition to your native soil will help your plants establish, grow, bloom, and thrive to their full potential.

Fertilizing Tips

At planting time, fertilize your perennials with Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Starter Food.

This natural and organic fertilizer is formulated to help newly transplanted plants develop strong roots and sturdy growth. It is gentle and non-burning and safe to use with even the most tender early blooming perennial transplants.

Mulching Tips

It is important to mulch when planting early spring blooming perennials, this will help with weed suppression and soil moisture retention. Be sure to add an additional layer of mulch, once the ground freezes to help protect the new plants through their first winter and to help prevent frost heaving in the spring.

Depending on their size, light, and soil preferences, early spring blooming perennials may be used in flower beds, landscape borders, naturalized in woodland gardens, planted along woodland edges, and more. Be sure to plant a few of your favorites where you’ll have a good view of their exquisiteness from indoors where you’ll be able to enjoy their early blooms even if it’s a bit too cold to be outdoors!

Forcing Bulbs for the Holidays and Beyond

Blooming baskets and pots of brightly colored forced bulbs make a fabulous holiday or winter gift for others and for ourselves. What better way to dress up the holiday home and add cheer to a long, cold winter, reminding us of the impending spring explosion of color and bloom?

The forcing process should begin in September or early October if you want the bulbs to be blooming for gift giving in late November or December. If you are starting late, no worries, just print these easy instructions to give with your potted bulbs and let the recipient do the rest. Or you may also pot up amaryllis and paperwhites, requiring no chill period, for quick and easy blooms.

Forcing Bulbs in 10 Easy Steps

Count backwards from the desired bloom date the number of weeks required for “bloom” plus the number of weeks required for “cooling”. This will establish your planting date.
Select a container that has drainage holes and is at least three times as tall as the unplanted bulb as the roots will need plenty of room to grow.
Moisten your Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Potting Soil [Eastern & Midwestern Regions | Western Region] in a tub until it is just moist but not sopping.
Mix a small amount of Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Starter Food evenly into your potting soil to help your bulbs develop a strong root system thus giving you a healthy, vibrant, well-blooming plant.
Fill enough of your container with potting soil so that when the bulb is placed on top of the soil the tip of the bulb sits slightly above the lip. Very small bulbs like crocus, dwarf iris, and grape hyacinth are the exception as they will be covered completely with about ½ to 1 inch of potting soil.
Place your bulbs on top of the soil. Keep them close without touching each other or the container.
Continue to fill the area between the bulbs with soil. Fill until slightly below the lip of the container allowing the tip of the pointed bulb to be exposed.
Water the soil gently, allowing the excess to drain.
Refrigerate potted bulbs for the appropriate amount of time at a temperature between 32- and 40-degrees Fahrenheit. Check frequently and water as necessary to keep the soil moist. Note: Both Amaryllis and Paperwhites do not require cold treatment.
Gradually acclimate planted bulbs to a warm, bright location when their required cooling time has been completed. Move back out of direct sun and into a cooler location when the bulbs finally flower to prolong the blooms. Be sure to rotate your containers frequently to provide even sunlight and to produce straight stems.

Bulb	Weeks Cold Treatment	Weeks to Bloom
Amaryllis	None	6 – 8
Crocus	8 – 10	2 – 3
Dutch Hyacinth	10 – 14	2 – 3
Dwarf Iris	10 – 12	2 – 3
Grape Hyacinth	8 – 10	2 – 3
Narcissus/Daffodil	14 – 18	4 – 5
Paperwhites	None	3 – 5
Tulip	14 – 16	4 – 5

Post Bloom

After flowering, cut back flower stems and place your containers back in full sun. Continue to water until the foliage dies back naturally. When the foliage is completely spent, place containers in a cool, dry place until early next fall when the bulbs may be safely planted into the garden. Forced bulbs may be planted naturally outdoors after blooming but cannot be forced a second time. Paperwhites will never bloom again and should be discarded after forcing. Previously forced bulbs, after planting in the ground, may skip a year’s bloom but will eventually return to their former beauty and regular schedule.

DELIGHTFUL DAFFODILS

Spring flowering bulbs are a must for every garden. They provide cheerful early-season color at a time when it is most needed, both in the landscape and by our Winter weary souls. Daffodils are some of the most delightful Spring flowering bulbs! What makes them so delightful is their ease of care, diversity in their flower color, size, shape and fragrance, resistance to pests and disease, and their carefree ability to increase and return year after year, with little effort.

Daffodil Selection

Did you know that there are over 32,000 registered cultivars of daffodils? This number gives us some indication of the immense diversity of this plant. Daffodils are classified into 13 separate divisions as noted by the Royal Horticulture Society https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/pdfs/plant-registration-forms/daffhortclass.pdf and some varieties are easier to find than others. As you become more familiar with, and addicted to, daffodil cultivation, you will never get tired of adding more of these bulbs to your collection, possibly seeking out a few hard-to-find daffodils.

Note: All daffodils are narcissus, but not all narcissus are daffodils. For the sake of simplicity, we will refer to all narcissus and daffodils mentioned in this article as daffodils. Their care is the same and separating them will only complicate matters.

Daffodils require a cold period to bloom. Most daffodils will flower best in USDA Hardiness Zone 7 and lower. If you live in USDA Hardiness Zone 8 and higher, there are some daffodils that will do well in your area, or you may purchase pre-chilled bulbs. It will help to work with your local Master Nursery® Garden Center to determine which daffodils do best in your particular zone.

All daffodils bloom in the Spring. Within the Spring season, some will bloom early, mid-season, and late. Knowing when a particular daffodil flowers, will allow you to plant varieties for a succession of blooms to extend the whole season. As you begin growing daffodils, it may be easiest to choose some of the most popular and easy to find varieties

Early-season Bloomers

Barrette Browning – white petals with small orange cup, 1 to 2 feet tall, lightly fragrant.
Rijnveld – golden yellow, 15 inches tall, delightfully fragrant.
Tete a Tete – buttercup yellow, multi-flowering, miniature at 6 to 8 inches tall, fragrant.

Mid-season Bloomers

Dutch Master – large, golden-yellow daffodil, 1 to 2 feet tall, lightly fragrant.
Ice Follies – creamy white petals with a pale-yellow cup, 20 inches tall, lightly scented.
Pink Charm – ivory petals with a coral-colored cup, 18 inches tall, fragrant.
Professor Einstein – snow white petals with a reddish-orange cup, 16 to 18 inches tall, fragrant.

Late-season Bloomers

Acetaea – pure white petals with a small gold cup rimmed in red, 1 to 1 ½ feet tall, fragrant.
Cheerfulness – small flowering, multi-flowering and multi-stemmed, white double flowers with pale yellow flecks, 1 to 2 feet tall, very fragrant.
Tahiti – large, double flowering daffodil, bright golden-yellow with bright orange ruffled cup, 16 inches tall, fragrant.
Thalia – downward facing, pure white flowers with 2 to 3 flowers per stem, 1 foot tall, very fragrant.

Planting Daffodils

Daffodils are purchased and planted in the Fall for Spring blooms and are extremely easy to plant.

Plant daffodils in a sunny to part-shady, well-drained site.
Daffodils may be planted in single holes, rows, or in groupings. Amend the soil with Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Builder [Eastern & Midwestern Regions | Western Region] by mixing 3 inches of the soil builder into 6 to 8 inches of native soil. This will help increase drainage and nourish bulbs.
Place daffodil bulbs 6 inches deep, pointy side up.
Mix one tablespoon of Bone Meal [Western Region] with the soil in the bottom of the planting hole; see product instructions. Cover this mixture with 1 inch of soil. Place the bulb into the hole then backfill with the Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Builder and native soil mixture. This will help stimulate strong root development.
No need for deer or rodent protection, these bulbs are pest proof!
Water the area after planting daffodils and wait for Spring!

With such wide diversity in one group of flowering bulbs, considerable beauty, ample fragrance, significant bloom time, and ample pest resistance, wouldn’t you agree that daffodils are delightful?

DELIGHTFUL DAFFODILS

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SENSATIONAL SHRUBS

Shrubs are vital to the home garden and any landscape design. They create a transition between low growing ground cover, annuals, perennials, and trees. With the proper care, shrubs, along with most plants, may be planted at any time of the year; however, the best time for shrub planting is in the Fall. Planting in the Fall allows the gardener to take advantage of the many benefits that this season has to offer. Shrubs planted at this time of year will benefit from:

Cool air temperatures
Warm soil temperatures
Consistent soil moisture
Reduced insect pressure
Time to establish long, strong roots

SHRUB SELECTION

It’s easy to fall in love with scores of shrubs, some for their flowers, some for their foliage, but it is prudent to check with your local Master Nursery® Garden Center for their expert advice regarding which shrubs will perform the best in your location. When asking for assistance in selecting shrubs, it is wise to provide as much information as you can to ensure a good match for you and your landscape. The following information will be helpful to your local nursery professional:

Your personal likes and dislikes
The size of the area allotted for a shrub
Soil pH
Exposure or how much sun or shade the planting site receives
Soil moisture if too wet or too dry
Soil structure if heavy clay or very sandy

POPULAR SHRUBS

Although these particular shrubs are not recommended for every landscape situation, we’ve listed some of our favorites that can be grown in a wide variety of conditions and hardiness zones. Some are deciduous; some are evergreen. Some are sun loving; some are shade tolerant. Some are flowering; some are grown for their colorful foliage. There are numerous species and varieties of each shrub listed, and your local Master Nursery® Garden Center’s educated staff will help you select the plants best suited to your situation.

1. Abelia
This gorgeous, semi-evergreen shrub throws out oodles of soft pink flowers from Summer through Fall. It prefers slightly acidic, rich soil that drains well. Give it full sun and grow it successfully in USDA hardiness zones 4 to 9.

Azalea
A shade loving, Spring blooming, evergreen shrub that flowers in shades of white, pink, rose, red and purple and favors acidic soil rich in organic matter. Azaleas will grow well in USDA hardiness zones 5 to 9.

Butterfly Bush
Summer flowering and sun loving, this shrub is a cutback shrub, meaning it flowers on new wood and can be cut back each year, late in the season to promote new growth for the following year. Butterfly Bush blooms are long, slender panicles in white, pink, magenta, purple, and blue. Grow in the sun in just about any well amended soil in zones 5 to 9.

Caryopteris
Late Summer through early Fall, caryopteris is loaded with cornflower blue, lavender, or purple flowers along long arching branches. Grow caryopteris in a full sun location in soil that is well drained and pH neutral. This cutback shrub has unusual gray-green leaves and may be grown in zones 4 to 8.

Forsythia
The quintessential Spring shrub, Forsythia heralds the season with bright yellow flowers. Grow this shrub in USDA hardiness zones 5 to 8. This tough plant will do well in just about any type of soil pH and structure but will have its best start in soil rich in organic matter. Rejuvenate this hardy shrub by cutting it back to the ground.

Hydrangea
A classic! This flowering shrub likes part-sun, and many thrive in salty coastal conditions. Hydrangea is available in numerous species and cultivars, so there is a selection that will do well in all USDA hardiness zones from 3 to 10. Some bloom on old wood, some on new wood. This information is vital to knowing when to prune a particular hydrangea. Hydrangeas should be grown in fertile, acidic soil and benefit from some afternoon shade in hot climates.

Viburnum
Spring blooming and often producing Summer or Fall berries, Viburnums are available in over 150 species and almost unlimited cultivars, guaranteeing that there is a viburnum suitable for every landscape. Viburnums can grow in a wide variety of situations but prefer slightly acidic, rich, well-drained soil. You’ll find a viburnum to love and grow in USDA hardiness zones 2 to 9.

Lilac
An American standard, lilacs provide early season, fragrant flowers in white, pink, lavender, and purple. Long-lived, Lilacs are perfect in a full sun situation and thrive in USDA hardiness zones 2 to 8. Lilacs will grow their best in slightly alkaline, moist, well-drained soil rich in organic matter.

Ninebark
Grown for its striking foliage in unusual colors from chartreuse to copper, Ninebark is the perfect, all-purpose shrub that is not fussy, likes full sun and is also cherished for its Spring flowers. Ninebark may be grown in USDA hardiness zones 2 to 8. Ninebark is tolerant of many soil conditions but prefers moist, well-drained soil that is neutral in pH to slightly acidic.

Rose of Sharon
This floriferous old-time shrub is valued for its colorful blooms in white, pink, magenta, lavender, and blue when little else is blooming during the dog days of summer. This is one tough shrub that, once established, is drought tolerant. Rose of Sharon may be grown in just about any soil but will put its best foot forward if planted in rich, moist, well-drained soil with an alkaline to neutral pH and in zones 5 to 9.

Spirea
Spirea is a very easy-to-grow, versatile, Spring blooming shrub that is usually planted in drifts. With so many variety choices available, you are sure to find a Spirea shrub to fit your landscape needs in zones 3 to 9. If planted in soil with good fertility that drains well, Spirea will give you years of pleasure with little yearly effort on your part.

Weigela
Weigela, a deer resistant shrub, loves rich, well-draining soil enriched with plenty of compost. This old-fashioned plant has plenty of staying power. Tiny tubular flowers run the length of beautifully arching stems in the late spring in shades of pink, magenta, red, and white. Many varieties have colorful and variegated leaves. Butterflies and hummingbirds love weigela. This plant may be successfully grown in hardiness zone 2 through 8.

PLANTING SHRUBS

The best time to plant shrubs is in the Fall.
Dig the planting hole just as deep but two times wider than the root ball.
Mix the excavated soil with at least 20 to 30% of its volume with Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Builder [Eastern & Midwestern Regions | Western Region] and set aside.
Position the root ball in the hole, making sure that the plant is facing best side forward and that the root ball sits level or just slightly higher than the surrounding soil surface.
Backfill with excavated soil mixture while gently firming soil as you do.
Create a saucer with the excess soil to direct water to the root zone.
Sprinkle the recommended amount of Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Starter Food around the root zone of the plant to help your shrub establish a long, strong, healthy root system.
Water well.
Mulch to help with soil moisture retention and weed suppression.

There you have it! Sensational shrubs can grace your landscape for years to come if you simply select them properly and give them an advantageous start by amending the soil with Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Builder [Eastern & Midwestern Regions | Western Region] and fertilizing with Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Starter Food. Proper planting and soil amending is key to shrub health and longevity, ensuring proper nutrition, sufficient organic matter, and good drainage as they settle in their new home and for the many years to come.

SUCCESS WITH SHADE TREES

Are you considering adding a shade tree to your landscape? The benefits of trees are innumerable and include oxygen production, pollution filtering, soil stabilizing, and environmental noise reduction to name a few. Shade trees, in particular, will increase the value of your property while enhancing the beauty of your surroundings.

Did you know that Fall is the best time of year to add a new tree to your landscape? Autumn planting will allow a tree time to acclimate to its new environment and establish fresh roots at a time of year when the soil temperature is still warm and soil moisture is consistent, long before the heat and drought of summer sets in again. We are here to let you know that successful shade tree planting is easier than you think.

TREE PLANTING TIPS FOR SUCCESS

Selection

The Arbor Day Foundation has compiled a list of the Top 10 Shade Trees that will help you begin your search for the perfect one. These are not the only shade trees available, however, and, of the trees listed, some may be more suitable to your location than others. Select an appropriate shade tree with the help of your local Master Nursery® Garden Center. Their educated and experienced staff will guide you in choosing the perfect shade tree that will perform well in your area, that will not outgrow its allotted space, and will provide you with the aesthetics that you desire.
Be aware that bigger is not better. Whether containerized or balled and burlapped, makes sure that the tree you select is a manageable size to handle. Research shows that, with all else being equal, a smaller sized newly planted tree grows more quickly than a newly planted large one. The two will almost eventually even out.
You should also know that it is best to plant as soon as possible after purchasing to minimize stress to the tree. If planting must be delayed, keep the root ball moist until planting time. Remember to never pull, carry, or move a tree by its trunk. This will cause damage to the root system.

Preparation

Soil preparation is arguably the most important yet easiest aspect of proper tree planting and will guarantee the health and longevity of your shade tree. When soil is amended correctly with Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Builder [Eastern & Midwestern Regions | Western Region], water drainage is increased while soil nutrition and suitable water holding capacity is greatly improved.
Dig your planting hole twice as wide but no deeper than the plant’s root ball or container. Mix Master Nursery® Bumper Crop®Soil Builder [Eastern & Midwestern Regions | Western Region] into the excavated soil, creating a 70/30 soil/Bumper Crop blend.
Mix the recommended amount of Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Starter Food into the excavated soil mixture. This non-burning, organic fertilizer with mycorrhiza will help the plant develop long, strong roots to ensure good health over the life span of the tree.
If containerized, gently and carefully remove your tree by squeezing the pot, all around, allowing the plant to easily slide out of it. If the tree is root bound and difficult to remove, you may cut the container away with pruning shears before centering it in the planting hole. Be sure to loosen the roots of a pot bound plant so that they do not continue to grow in a circular fashion which will eventually lead to root strangulation.
If the plant is balled and burlapped, place and center it in the planting hole then cut and remove all twine from the root ball and trunk. Burlap may be left in the hole, however, it should be loosened and pulled away from the tree trunk and tucked below the soil surface to decompose naturally over time. Placing some of the 70/30 soil mixture in the hole will help stabilize your plant while you adjust its position to your liking.

Planting

After positioning your new tree, backfill the hole entirely with the reserved 70/30 soil/Bumper Crop mixture, gently firming as you do until the soil is level with the surrounding ground. With the excess soil, create a ring around the edge of the planting hole to act as a saucer that will help prevent water run-off when watering.

Watering

Water the planting area thoroughly with a slow soaking drip. Apply a 3-inch layer of mulch around your new shade tree,keeping it about 3 inches away from the trunk to prevent rot. The addition of mulch will aid in conserving soil moisture.
For at least the first several months after planting, continue to keep the planting area of your new shade tree moist but not wet by using a slow drip or soaker hose. Do not allow your tree to experience drought within the first year after planting. If Mother Nature does not provide adequate rainfall each week during the first year, you will have to supplement water during this critical time when the tree is developing new roots.

A shade tree will bring you years of beauty and enjoyment while adding value to your home. These simple instructions, along with the inclusion of Master Nursery Bumper Crop Products and the expert advice from your Master Nursery® Garden Center, will ensure your success in the planting, health, and longevity of your shade tree.

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THE COOL SEASON VEGETABLE GARDEN

As with most other plants, Fall is an excellent time to plant vegetables! Many vegetables such as broccoli and cauliflower are of a higher quality when grown in the Fall, while others, like kale, develop better flavor after a frost. Spinach, chard, kale, collards, mustard, and arugula all grow rapidly and flourish at the end of the season, ideal for autumn gardening! Loose-leaf lettuces also do well. Now is the time to increase the ROI of your vegetable plot and plant cool season vegetables for the autumn table.

PREPARING THE GARDEN

With both in-ground and raised beds, begin your Fall vegetable garden preparation by pulling out the spent Summer vegetable plants that are no longer producing.
Remove all weeds and all other debris from the bed as well.
GARDEN BEDS: Spread and rake out evenly, across the entire garden bed, a 3-inch layer of Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Builder [Eastern & Midwestern Regions | Western Region].
RAISED BEDS: If you plan to begin a new vegetable garden this Fall, a raised bed is the way to go. If you’re in the Eastern and Midwestern Regions, simply fill the entire bed with Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Builder. If you’re in the Western Region, fill your entire bed with Masters’ Pride Professional Potting Soil.
Following the directions on the bag, sprinkle Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Tomato and Vegetable Food on the surface of the soil.
Till or spade the area to completely incorporate both the soil and vegetable food.
Now you’re ready to plant!

BEST VEGETABLES FOR THE GARDEN

Broccoli
Brussels Sprouts
Cabbage
Cauliflower
Swiss Chard
Collards
Kale
Lettuce, Head
Lettuce, Leaf
Mustard
Rape
Spinach

CARING FOR THE GARDEN

It is important to know the average first frost date of your garden location. This will assist you in determining your planting deadlines so that your vegetables are producing and ready to harvest before it gets too cold. Some autumn vegetable varieties will tolerate cold better than others. Read seed packets carefully to determine what vegetables will grow best in your area and to calculate how much time you have to grow a particular one. Note that some vegetables, like greens, may be harvested when they are young and even more tender and nutritious. This will reduce the quoted days of maturity. If you happen to be short on time, purchasing small Fall vegetable plants from your local Master Nursery® Garden Center will reduce your growing time even further.

Whether starting seeds inside, direct seeding, or planting vegetable starts, always water your garden well and keep it moist, not wet, to help your plants to thrive. Mulch your bed with straw or salt hay to help moderate soil temperature and retain soil moisture.

Later in the season, some Fall crops may benefit from a little extra protection from the elements. A cold frame constructed or placed over the vegetable garden, or hoops with frost fabric on them, will help protect your vegetable garden from cold weather and frost, extending your season further.

Harvest your Fall vegetables as soon as the plants reach edible size. Even after the first frost, you’ll be able to continue harvesting many Fall vegetables to use and enjoy in your favorite autumn dishes.

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Wonderful Watermelon

WATERMELON in-Ground - EAST

WATERMELON in-Ground WEST

WATERMELON Raised Bed - EAST

WATERMELON Raised Bed - WEST Juicy, cool, and sweet, watermelon is the perfect summertime treat, and no Summer shindig is complete without this refreshing addition. Did you know that watermelon is also easy to grow? Impress your friends at your next Summer soiree with the freshest fruit straight from the garden.

Let’s Begin

Watermelon may be grown from seed directly sown or from transplants. No need to rush, it’s best to make sure that both your air and your soil is warm before planting. Large fruiting watermelon plants take about 80 to 90 days to reach maturity. Small fruiting varieties take about 70 to 75 days.

Planting

Watermelons require deep, rich, nutritious soil to grow and taste their best. Plant your watermelon seeds, or transplants, in a sunny location about 6 feet apart and provide plenty of room for the vines to sprawl. Dig a large hole in your garden bed, about 1 foot deep and wide, and fill it entirely with Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Builder [Eastern & Midwestern Regions | Western Region]. If you’re in the Eastern & Midwestern Regions and are planting in a raised bed, which is an excellent way to grow watermelon, the bed may be entirely filled with Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Builder.

A powerhouse blend of manure, earthworm castings, kelp, and more, makes Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Builder the perfect planting medium to grow an abundant crop of deliciously sweet and succulent fruit. It’s important to know that watermelon roots grow deep and wide. Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Builder’s exceptional blend improves root growth and function.

Feeding

Fertilize your watermelon plants with Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® All Purpose Plant Food when they emerge from the soil or at transplant time, again when vines begin to sprawl, and one last time at fruit set. Be sure to water-in each fertilizer application.

Watering

Watermelons require ample and consistent water to grow their sweetest and juiciest. Stopping supplemental watering about two weeks before the fruit is ready to harvest will allow for the concentration of sugar to take place, creating a sweeter fruit.

Tips

Mulch the area where the vines will run with a thick layer of mulch. Salt marsh hay or straw are perfect choices. Mulching will keep the developing fruit off of the ground, helping it remain clean and preventing it from rotting on moist soil.
Watermelons are ready to harvest when the tendrils near the fruit turn brown, the under area of the fruit turns from white to a pale yellow, the green complexion becomes dull, and there is a hollow sound when you knock on the fruit with your knuckles.

The Summer growing season is just beginning, and there’s still plenty of time to plant lots of watermelon to impress your guests! See our Garden Center Locator to find your local store.

Home-Grown Tomato Essentials

TOMATOES Containers - EAST TOMATOES Containers - WEST TOMATOES in-Ground - EAST TOMATOES in-Ground - WEST TOMATOES Raised Bed - EAST Tomatoes…we wait patiently from Fall to Summer to enjoy this delectable Summer indulgence once again. There is nothing quite like a home-grown tomato, and we’d like to help you grow the most delicious crop ever this year.

TOMATO BASICS

When selecting which tomatoes to plant, it’s important to know that there are two different classifications of tomatoes: determinate and indeterminate. These designations should be listed on your plant tags at your Master Nursery® Garden Center. Determinate, or bush varieties, grow 1 to 3 feet tall. When flowers form at the vine tips, the plant stops growing. This means fruit sets all at once – which makes them excellent for canning. Indeterminate types, on the other hand, are sprawling vines that grow 6 to 20 feet long and keep producing and growing until frost. Indeterminate vines should be pruned to ensure that they do not put too much energy into vine production. Pinch out side-shoots (“suckers”) as they develop to prevent excess growth and encourage more fruit. All tomatoes will require support, and this should be installed at planting time.

Select a sunny location for your tomatoes and be sure to give your plants plenty of room to grow; we suggest planting tomatoes 3 feet apart on center. Tomatoes may be grown in the ground, in raised garden beds, and in containers or pots. This makes it easy to grow tomatoes in any location with a full sun exposure!

When growing in a garden bed, be sure to first amend your garden soil with Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Builder [Eastern & Midwestern Regions | Western Region]. The addition of Bumper Crop® Soil Builder will get your tomatoes off to a proper start by enriching your soil as it helps increase drainage while also improving the soil’s water-holding capacity.

When growing in a raised bed, for best results, simply fill the bed entirely with Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Builder [Eastern & Midwestern Regions].

If choosing to grow in pots and containers, it is best to fill them with Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Potting Soil [Eastern & Midwestern Regions | Western Region]. This nutritious soil blend will meet the needs of your tomatoes, yet it is lightweight, making it effortless to move or rearrange containers, and ensures that a porch or deck can reliably support the weight of a collection of containers.

Tomato plants should be set deep in the soil with the first leaf just above ground level. Leggy plants can even be planted horizontally as roots will develop from the planted stem. It is important to fertilize tomato plants at planting time, again at fruit set, and then every 1 to 2 weeks thereafter throughout the growing season. We suggest using Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Tomato and Vegetable Food. This masterly crafted vegetable food is naturally blended to enrich plant growth without producing excessive foliage at the expense of fruit. The additional phosphate helps to ensure the production of high-quality fruits and vegetables. Its calcium aids in preventing disorders like blossom end rot, common to tomatoes but easily avoided with the use of this fertilizer.

Water at planting time, check your tomato plants daily, and water as needed. It’s a good idea to apply mulch around all vegetable plants, whether planted in the ground, in a raised bed, or in containers, to help keep the soil moist and cool. Salt hay or shredded straw works just fine!

If you have any question regarding the products mentioned in this article or cultivating tomatoes, stop by your favorite Master Nursery® Garden Center, and their qualified staff will be happy to assist you. Now, let the tomato season begin!

Rose Growing 101

Do you think that beautiful roses are difficult to grow? Well, think again! It’s easy to be confused with so many rose growing recommendations and suggestions offered on the internet, in books, on product packaging, and, of course, from well-meaning friends and fellow gardeners. If you begin, however, with good soil, proper planting, and ideal nutrients, growing gorgeous roses becomes a cinch!

Prepare the Soil

The most important step in growing healthy roses is proper soil preparation. Good soil is essential to nourish roses so they can grow to their full potential. To make sure that your planting soil is ideal for growing roses…

Take a sample of your existing soil to test the pH. Roses like a pH of 6.0 to 6.8. You may need to add lime to raise the pH or sulfur to lower it to the optimum rose range.
Incorporate plenty of Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Builder [Eastern & Midwestern Regions | Western Region] or Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Conditioner [Western Region] into your existing soil. Specifically blended to enhance your native soil, these products provide superior drainage and are an excellent source of nutritious organic matter required for the long-term health of your roses. There is simply no better product on the market to ensure exceptional growing conditions for nurturing magnificent roses.

Planting Roses

Properly planted roses will provide you with years of stunning flowers and reduce supplemental care substantially.

Select a sunny spot with good soil drainage – roses require at least 6 hours of full sun daily. Early morning sun is preferred because it dries the leaves, which helps prevent disease.
Dig a wide, shallow hole that is 2-3 times as wide but not quite as deep as the root ball (about 1 inch shallower). The plant should sit on solid ground, so it doesn’t sink when the soil settles.
Remove the plant from the pot and loosen any circling roots.
Place the plant in the hole slightly elevated above ground level.
Backfill with soil that has been richly amended with Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Builder [Eastern & Midwestern Regions | Western Region] or Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Conditioner [Western Region], until the hole is full and all roots are covered.
Apply 2 inches of mulch around the base of the rose, being careful not to mound mulch against the stems of the plant. Mulch will help to conserve soil moisture and reduce the need for weeding around the plant.

Food and Water

Roses need the proper nutrition – water and fertilizer – to bloom well, develop stunning colors and fragrance, and keep insect and disease at bay.

Roses thrive best when given 1 inch of water weekly. A thorough soaking from rain or hose will keep roses bloom potential at an all-time high. Try not to overhead water unless it is early in the day, to assist in the prevention of leaf disease, such as black spot.
Fertilize at planting time and then monthly with Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Rose and Flower Food, a real powerhouse fertilizer, specially formulated for the nutritional needs of roses.

Catch Trouble in Time

There are times when roses will succumb to diseases and pests, but proper soil amending, planting, feeding, and watering will substantially reduce this risk. Keep an eye on your roses and be diligent to react quickly if a problem arises. Your Master Nursery® Garden Center will help you to identify any problems that may arise and will recommend the appropriate action to take.

Stop by your Master Nursery® Garden Center for an exceptional selection of quality roses, a knowledgeable staff to answer all your rose questions, and the exceptional Master Nursery® products you’ll need to make your rose growing experience a cinch!

Pepper Basics

PEPPERS in-Ground - EAST PEPPERS in-Ground - WEST PEPPERS Raised Bed - EAST PEPPERS Raised Bed - WEST PEPPERS Containers - EAST PEPPERS Containers - WEST Who doesn’t love peppers? Ranging in selections from crispy sweet to fiery hot, and in a variety of sizes, stretching from short and round, to long and skinny, to big and blocky, peppers are perfect for stuffing, frying, roasting, and eating raw. Peppers are the perfect Summer vegetable! They are a staple in many warm season dishes and are happiest when grown in the hot weather. Are you growing peppers this year?

Pepper plants are one of the easiest-to-grow Summer vegetables that have the same basic needs and care requirements as tomatoes, making them perfect planting mates. Pepper plants are generally on the petite side, making them easy to grow in sunny garden plots, raised beds, and also in containers.

Start with a collection of healthy pepper plants of your choosing from your local Master Nursery® Garden Center. You will find a tag attached to each of your selections that will describe the size and color of your fruit and exactly how hot or sweet your chosen peppers will be. Plan to plant peppers once your soil has warmed in the early Summer. Peppers like it hot and sunny!

When planting directly in your vegetable garden, be sure to first amend your garden soil with Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Builder [Eastern & Midwestern Regions | Western Region]. The addition of Bumper Crop® Soil Builder will get your plants off to a proper start by enriching your soil as it helps increase drainage while also improving the soil’s water-holding capacity. Though similar in their basic care, peppers, unlike tomatoes, are not a vine and should be planted no deeper than they are already planted in the container that you purchase them in. As with all vegetables, it is important to fertilize pepper plants at planting time and then once a month throughout the growing season. We suggest using Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Tomato and Vegetable Food. This masterly crafted vegetable food is naturally blended to enrich plant growth without producing excessive foliage at the expense of fruit. The additional phosphate helps to ensure the production of high-quality fruits and vegetables. Its calcium aids in preventing disorders like blossom end rot, a disorder that is common to peppers and tomatoes but easily avoided with the use of this fertilizer.

No in-ground garden? No problem! Peppers are just as easily grown in raised beds and containers. Simply fill your raised bed with Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Builder [Eastern & Midwestern Regions], no need to mix in any native soil.

For planting in pots or containers, we recommend using Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Potting Soil [Eastern & Midwestern Regions | Western Region]. Be sure to fertilize all pepper plants, regardless of where they are planted with Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Tomato and Vegetable Food. Fertilize at planting time and then monthly thereafter.

Immediately after planting, water your pepper plants well. Containers and raised beds tend to dry out quicker than in-ground gardens. Be sure to check all your vegetable plants daily to assess their water needs and water them as necessary.

Pepper plants can get top heavy, especially when happy and healthy, producing a bumper crop of fruit. Be sure to add plant supports at planting time.

Oh, yes, and just a couple of final tips and things to keep in mind when selecting and growing this delicious vegetable:

Peppers prefer to be cut from the plant rather than pulled off.
Most sweet peppers become even sweeter when they mature as they turn from green to bright red, yellow, orange or even brown or purple.
As hot peppers mature and turn red, they get hotter.

Summer is here, the soil is heating up, and it’s time to plant those peppers!

RAISED BED VEGETABLE GARDENS

for Eastern & Midwestern Regions:

Vegetable gardening, it seems like everybody is doing it, and why not? Growing your own vegetables is healthy in so very many ways. But how can you be successful in your endeavors if you have less than optimal soil?

Poor soil? No worries! Try growing vegetables in a raised bed.

Why Raised Beds?

There are many benefits to gardening above the grade, including…

Better Soil Conditions
Raised beds allow you to select and add the soil of your choice to provide the optimum conditions for root growth. And, because a raised bed is not stepped in, soil compaction is never an issue.
Higher Crop Yield
Better soil equals better root growth, which then leads to a higher yield of vegetables. Also, intensive planting in raised beds means more plants can healthfully be grown in a smaller area, no wasted space on pathways.
Easier Maintenance
A well-thought-out raised bed will be accessible from each side, allowing for easier maintenance. Healthy soil and intensive planting reduces weeds. Improved soil conditions make weed removal easier and spurs large, lush plants that will shade the soil surface, thus reducing weed seed germination.
Decreased Garden Pests
Pest insects are less of a problem in raised beds and the main reason is due to healthier soil conditions. Less pest control leads to an increase in beneficial insects. It’s a win-win!
Reduce Water Usage

Soil, rich in compost, naturally has improved soil moisture retention, thus cutting back on time watering and the amount of water used.

Extended Growing Season
Increased drainage, due to improved soil, speeds up bed warming and allows soil to dry more quickly after early season rains. Both warm soil and excellent drainage are perfect conditions for earlier Spring planting.

Raised Bed Soil

Take away on raised beds…it’s all about the soil!

Growing vegetables in a raised bed is essentially the same as growing vegetables in any container, and did you know that a rich soil builder that is packed with compost and that is nutrient rich, may be used successfully in a raised bed situation?

We recommend using Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Builder, which is specifically designed for your region and is teeming with natural and organic material. This product contains natural, power-packed, soil components that are nutrient dense and feed the soil that feeds the vegetables that you grow!

But don’t forget the fertilizer! In addition to using Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Builder, which is rich in nutrients, add Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Tomato and Vegetable Food at planting time to ensure that your veggies are getting everything they need to grow and fruit to their full potential. For established vegetable plants, feed every 4-6 weeks as needed through the growing season. If nutrients are leached from the soil due to excessive rainfall, fertilizing with this exceptional product will feed your plants with all the macro-nutrients, as well as micro-nutrients, that they need, including calcium for preventing common problems like blossom end rot.

You can grow the best vegetables ever this year! With Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® products, you are guaranteed the best soils and plant foods available anywhere, making it possible for even the newest gardener to obtain outstanding results.

SEED STARTING IN CONTAINERS

Indoor seed starting will give you a jump start on the gardening season and is an enjoyable and rewarding experience. Starting your plants from seed will also provide you with greater plant variety options.

If you are a new gardener, don’t let seed starting scare you off. It’s simple; the key to successful seed starting is in creating the proper environment for your plant babies.

SEED NEEDS

Seeds are amazingly resilient, but in order to give them the best start possible, they’ll need a little gentle nurturing to grow into healthy, vibrant plants.

Containers

In general, seeds should be started 4 to 6 weeks before the recommended outdoor planting date, so the seedlings will be large and strong enough to withstand the stresses of transplanting. Your choice of a container is not of the greatest importance, except to say that plastic is not porous and will keep potting soil from drying out too quickly. Also, size does matter! Use a small container or cell pack to start your seedlings and bump them up to a larger container as necessary.

Soil

It’s important to use a growing medium that will support the unique needs of seedlings, one that is rich in nutrients to nourish the young plants while being light and airy enough to encourage long, strong root growth. Always start your seeds with Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Potting Soil [Eastern & Midwestern Regions | Western Region]. Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® offers a natural and organic premium potting blend that is perfect for seed starting. It includes high-quality ingredients like earthworm castings and kelp meal to gently nourish young seedlings as they mature into strong and vigorous plants, ready to be placed out in the garden.

Sow

Fill your chosen containers with lightly moistened Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Potting Soil [Eastern & Midwestern Regions | Western Region]. Sow seeds at the depth listed on the seed package. Water using a fine spray to help the soil soak down around the seed. Cover the container with clear plastic kitchen wrap or a plant dome to hold the moisture and increase humidity. Place the containers in a warm (70 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit) spot and check daily for germination. The top of the refrigerator is often an ideal location. Seeds do not require bright light until they germinate.

Water & Light

When the first seeds germinate, remove the clear cover and place the seedlings in an area with bright sunlight or under artificial lights for up to 16 hours a day. Artificial lights should be placed as close as 2 to 3 inches from the seedling tops for best results. Never allow the soil to dry out. Check for water needs daily.

Fertilize

When the seedlings develop their first true sets of leaves, add half-strength water soluble fertilizer to their water – organic Fish Emulsion is great to use. Repeat once a week to provide nourishment to the rapidly growing seedlings. Thin the seedlings or transplant them to larger containers as they grow.

Harden Off

Before planting outdoors, harden-off the plants at least one week before the planting date. Take the transplants outdoors in the daytime and bring them in at night. Shaded and protected at first, gradually expose them to more time outdoors with lower temperatures and more sunlight.

Transplant

Transplant seedlings into the garden after the safe planting date and on a calm, overcast day. Gently firm the soil around each transplant with as little root disturbance as possible. Make sure that your planting bed has been amended with plenty of Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Builder [Eastern & Midwestern Regions | Western Region]. Water the transplants well and continue to keep the soil moist until the plants become established.

Finally, Protection

The use of a frost blanket, draped on wire hoops over early plantings, will aid in their transplant success, especially if a late frost is forecasted. A thin frost fabric covering draped on wire hoops can also help seedlings adjust well to their new outdoor environment by protecting them from too much sun and wind as they become established. Visit your local Master Nursery Garden Center for options.

As you can see, seed starting is not so daunting. As you gain more confidence and experience with starting seeds, you’ll be able to carefully plan a seed starting calendar to ensure a varied, productive, lush, rich, and long harvest season every year.

SPRING CONTAINER PLANTING

This is the moment we’ve all been waiting for… Spring container planting! All through the long winter months, we eagerly await signs of Spring; however, the wait is now over! Garden centers are packed with their favorite cold tolerant annuals… perfect for your Spring container garden! Not only can containers bring an early burst of Spring to your front entryway, deck, patio, or porch, but you can get creative and expressive with stunning flower choices for every container.

Why Containers? Why Now?

Planting in containers like pots, urns, barrels, and window boxes can extend the growing season and help you refresh your gardening skills before the big rush of Spring garden chores. Containers are also less dependent on weather conditions and can easily be moved to warmer and sunnier spots even on chilly days. Spring containers can even be brought indoors to a porch, sunroom, or garage if a hard frost threatens, and your early Spring gardening doesn’t need to be in danger. Containers are easy to care for and can brighten up any part of your yard, even before Mother Nature gets growing again.

Favorite Cold Tolerant Spring Annuals

With limited space in containers, you’ll want to choose the very best Spring flowers for brilliant color and thriving growth. Spring can be a temperamental season and may still have fluctuating temperatures and uneven moisture, so it is smart to choose flowers that can tolerate these conditions.

Alyssum
Bachelor’s Button
Calendula
Calibrachoa
Dianthus
Diascia
English Daisy
Lobelia
Nemesia
Osteospermum
Pansy
Petunia
Primrose
Snapdragon
Stock
Sweet Pea

Tips for Spring Containers

No matter what flowering annuals you choose for Spring container planting, they need the best care to thrive through this often-temperamental season.

Be sure to select a premium quality potting soil for your containers! We recommend Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Potting Soil [Eastern & Midwestern Regions | Western Region]. This product is an exclusive blend of high quality natural and organic ingredients that are perfectly balanced for pH, water holding capabilities, and drainage. Choosing and using Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Potting Soil will save you time and money, reducing both your water and fertilizer needs.

Fertilize your container at planting time to promote the best growth and vibrant blooms. We highly recommend Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Rose and Flower Food. This natural and organic plant food boasts an NPK of 4 – 6 – 2 to promote healthy plants and lots of flowers! It is blended with beneficial soil microbes, including mycorrhizal fungi to promote long, strong roots.

Take care not to overwater containers; balance your watering regimen with Mother Nature’s Spring rains. Pots should have good drainage to be sure excess water can easily flow away from the root zone. Placing pots on casters or stands can also help improve drainage and be sure the pots are not sitting in Spring puddles.

To help your Spring containers last as long as possible, deadhead the flowers regularly with sharp, thin pruning snips. This will keep the pots tidy and encourage reblooming for a longer flowering season, letting you enjoy every Spring bloom well into the season.

RAISED BED HERB GARDENS

for Eastern & Midwestern Regions:

Raised bed planting is a great way to grow just about any edible, especially herbs! Why herbs, you ask? Because most herbs prefer the excellent drainage that a raised garden bed provides.

Growing herbs may very well be one of gardening’s most gratifying experiences! Most herbs are simple to grow, excellent for the beginner gardener as well as for those with a passion for cooking. Herbs have a multitude of other uses, besides culinary, that include aromatic, ornamental, and medicinal. Because of their beauty and versatility, herbs may be planted in a mixed bed with vegetables or in a raised garden bed dedicated strictly to their kind.

Herb Growing Tips

Choose a full sun location for your raised herb garden. Some herbs will grow in a shadier location, but, as a general rule of thumb, full sun will produce the healthiest plants. For easy access when cooking, select a spot for your herb garden that is near the kitchen.
As with all edibles, soil fertility is important. We suggest filling your raised herb bed with Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Builder for outstanding soil nutrition and friability. This soil is blended to meet the unique needs of your specific growing region.
Excellent soil drainage is particularly important when growing herbs. This is another reason to be sure to plant them using only the best soil, like Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Builder, while also being careful to not overwater your herbs. Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Builder is created to be perfectly balanced for both water holding capabilities and drainage.
Know the ultimate size of your herbs, both height and width, to help you plan your spacing at planting time. This information will also assist you in placing taller herbs behind shorter ones to ensure easy garden access and to reduce plant shading, permitting the sunlight to reach all your herbs.
It is important to water potted herbs before planting. Once watered, remove plants from their pots and loosen roots to stimulate new root growth. Place herbs in their planting hole at the same soil depth at which they were planted in the pot. Gently firm the soil around each plant.
Side dress your newly planted herbs with Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® All Purpose Food and water carefully.

A Message about Mints

It’s important to note that mints have a tendency to be invasive and may take over an entire herb garden. An excellent idea is to sink the pot of this rather aggressive herb directly into the garden, set the pot high to keep the mint from climbing over the lip and into the raised bed. Another and even better idea, is to plant your mint in a separate container garden where it cannot take over other less aggressive plants.

Harvesting

Fresh herb leaves are ready to be harvested as soon as there is enough foliage to maintain the plant. Try to harvest in the morning, after the dew has dried but before the sun becomes too hot, using a clean, sharp knife or scissors to make each cut. It is a good idea to harvest only what you plan to use at the time of cutting, as herbs do not store well in the refrigerator. With most herbs, it is beneficial to harvest before the plants go to flower, as the taste is better at this stage of growth. Rinse with cold water and pat dry before using.

Herbs are exceptionally versatile, used fresh, frozen, or even dried in salads, sauces, soups, pastas, teas, and baked goods. They may be enjoyed for their beauty, fragrance, and their purposefulness in natural medicine. The best part is that all herbs are delightfully easy to grow in a sunny raised bed using Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Builder and All Purpose Food. What herbs will you grow this Spring?